In Uji—a town just 30 minutes from Kyoto—matcha isn’t just a drink, it’s everything. Every morning at 10 AM, matcha shops like Nakamura Tokichi Honten swing open, and a remix of tradition and tourism begins. But lately, the surge in global demand has left locals questioning whether Uji’s centuries-old tea heritage is being steamrolled.
On a recent visit, the moment the shop doors opened, the scene resembled a mini riot: visitors diving for tins, even one grabbing directly from a restocking tray. By 10:05, some shops were wiped clean of ceremonial-grade tins. The supply simply can't keep pace with the frenzy.
In 2023, Japan produced 4,176 tonnes of matcha—triple the amount in 2010—yet same-season ceremonial leaves remain scarce and precious. Growing them requires shading the plants, which limits photosynthesis and yields, while traditional stone mills only output around 400 g of ultra-fine powder per day. That’s barely enough for a dozen tins.
As a result, shops like Tsujirihei now ration stock aggressively. Despite some outlets offering limits, tourists continue to hoard—buying several hundred dollars’ worth at a time—and repurposing it for lattes, smoothies, and desserts, not traditional tea ceremonies. The mismatch is clear: what’s ancient art to locals has become Instagramable commodity to visitors.
Uji authorities and experts like Simona Suzuki from the Global Japanese Tea Association are urging tourists to consider the cultural significance of matcha. High-grade tins belong in ceremonial ceremonies—the kind that honor the tea’s origin—not coffee shops halfway around the world.
That doesn’t mean matcha lovers should be disappointed. Uji's tea heritage spans a vibrant spectrum—from robust sencha and gyokuro to nutty hojicha. Cafés here still serve soba noodles, parfaits, and even gyoza infused with real Uji tea—all rooted in tradition and far less controversial than ceremonial tins.
For travelers, Uji remains a sensory paradise—the powdered green landscape of its shops, its fragrant air, and storied history. The challenge ahead: keep that cultural essence alive, even as tourism turns matcha into a global possession.
Source: BBC News
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